How to fit VW Golf mk4 cruise control. This article shows in detail how to retrofit cruise control to your Golf mk4 if it was not fitted as standard.
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This article was provided courtesy of www.golfmk4.co.uk.
We believe the site is no longer live, so we have rescued the article and placed it on our site along with some other information.
We have no experience with this modification and cannot confirm whether the procedure is complete. We have been as thorough as we can and provide this information on good faith that we cannot accept any responsibly for any omissions, errors, property damage or physical injury.
Please note that this procedure does involve removing the steering wheel which contains your air-bag. If you are unsure how to handle this device, you must seek further guidance.
You will also need access to vag-com or similar in order to activate the cruise control within your cars ECU.
Here we go …………
It is possible to fit factory specification Cruise Control to a number of VAG group vehicles using OE parts at a fraction of the cost of that charged by a dealer for this conversion ;
VW Golf Mk4 / Bora
Audi A3/S3 (mk1) 1996-2003
Audi TT (mk1) 1999-2006
Skoda Octavia (mk1) 1998-2005
Seat Leon/Toledo (mk1) 2000-2005
with Drive-By-Wire (Electronic) Throttle
All TDI models, plus later 1.6 (16v), V5 and V6 models are partly wired for cruise control already. However it is also possible to apply cruise control conversions to 1.8 Turbo petrol models using an additional wiring loom. Basically, if you have an electronic throttle, and hence an ‘EPC’ light on your dashboard, then it should be possible to retro fit cruise control onto your Golf mk4 based model.
Parts Required for golf mk4 cruise control
Replacement Indicator Stalk Switch with cruise control VAG p/n:
1J0 953 513 01 C – (click for pricing)
Note that this part is preferable to the earlier specification part :
8L0 953 513J 01C (click for pricing) as fitted as original equipment on models up to around 2001. However both types are totally interchangeable, but the later part is easier to operate.
Additional wiring loom for cruise control switch VAG p/n:
1J0 971 425 (click for pricing)
Both of these parts may also be available from your local VW/Skoda/Seat/Audi dealer and are sold as a VAG approved kit for retro-fitting cruise control to golf Mk4 and Bora TDI models.
1.8T Engined Golf/Bora/TT/A3/S3/Octavia/Leon
For 1.8T models, an additional loom is required to connect between the interior of the car and the engine ECU. This loom is unavailable from VAG dealers and many will tell you that cruise control cannot be fitted to 1.8T models. For this reason I made my own loom, which simply replicates the cabling that would be factory installed on new 1.8T Golf models with factory fitted cruise control. After verification on a number of VAG models I can now supply this loom to other VAG owners wishing to perform the installation.
1) Before beginning, please read the following page if your vehicle is fitted with the VAG ‘ESP’ stability control – ESP Warning
2) Enable the ECU for Cruise Control using vag-com or similar. Note that this procedure does not require the registered version of vag-com :
[01 – Engine]
[Login – 11]
Enter 11463 to activate cruise control
Note – There are two methods using vag-com to verify if your ECU has been successfully activated for cruise control. Firstly, when you open the engine module the engine description will include a letter G if cruise is active, eg 1.8L 5V 110KW TLG V005. Secondly, the outputs from block 6 of the engine module will show a 0 in the RH column if cruise is active, but 255 if it is still disabled. If you need to deactivate cruise you can repeat the login procedure above but enter the code 16167.
With cruise control enabled and all wiring completed, it is possible to view the outputs from the cruise switch with vag-com by viewing block 66 of the engine module. This may be useful for diagnosis of a wiring fault once installed.
3) Installing the Cruise Control stalk & interior wiring.
(This information was rescued from ‘Foxy’s Website’ which is no longer available and was referenced in the original article).
Removing the airbag and wheel.
DANGER! The steering wheel contains an air-bag module. Seek the guidance of specialists if you are unsure about handling this device!! Do not sit in front of the airbag whilst removing, nor let anyone else sit inside the car.
Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees from the ‘straight ahead’ position.
Using a mirror if required, look at the back of the steering wheel hub; the bit now facing the speedo binnacle area.
Insert a long, small screwdriver (flat), and you’ll now have to lever open one of the retaining springs. (It’s easier to see what you’re levering, by looking at the inside view below)
By levering upwards on the screwdriver handle, the tip will go downwards and the spring will open, allowing the airbag module retaining peg to be released.
Rotate the steering wheel back through 180 degrees, and repeat this process on the second and final securing spring.
Carefully, now remove the airbag module far enough to un-clip the firing line wire (5cm or so)
Lay the airbag module somewhere it won’t get knocked or dropped (like on the back seat of the car). It can ‘fire’ if dropped, or be made inert.
Return the wheel to ‘straight ahead’. Using the M12 spline drive, and whilst holding the wheel tightly (not against the steering lock), turn the centre fixing bolt out, anti-clockwise.
Now look at the bolt seat area on the top of the steering column – there should already be an alignment mark – if not, be sure to punch one. (the splines are very fine, so be accurate with marking)
The wheel can be removed by pulling gently towards you. Note the location of the contact ring/indicator cancelling device wheel engagement peg, and remove this item by unclipping.
Remove the plastic shrouding around the steering column by un-screwing the small philips-head securing screws in the deep recesses and the large exposed torx bolt under the ignition switch.
Removing and Replacing the Stalk Switch
The stalks are both mounted onto the column as a unit, and need to be removed together.
Slide out the steering column adjustment to give better access here if required.
Slacken the unit mounting clamp bolt (black torx head on the shiny metal clamp in RH pic). Withdraw the stalk unit, and when accessible, unclip the loom plugs on both sides. The entire unit can be moved now and be split-down.
Insert a small flat-blade as shown, lever the clip, and slide the two halves apart.
Retain the wiper stalk half, and slide-in the new cruise-control stalk to replace the original, until it ‘clicks’ securely home. Get the new wiring loom, and insert the 10-way black plug at one end, into the socket on the back of the new CC stalk unit.
Re-assemble the stalk assembly back onto the column, plugging the two main loom connectors in reverse order of removal.
Carefully thread the new loom wiring alongside the other wiring, down beside the steering column and push the ‘loose end’ and the slack wire into the ‘behind dash’ area, ready for the next stage.
Clamp-up the stalk switch unit to the column shaft with the torx driver.
Re-fit the column plastic shrouding.
Refit the indicator cancelling unit.
Carefully re-align and refit the steering wheel, noting the alignment marks.
The wheel fixing bolt can apparently be removed/refitted up to five times before needing replacement.
Carefully offer the airbag module up to the wheel, refit the firing line wire, and re-clip the module pegs back into the spring fixings.
Test everything disturbed to ensure it’s all safe.
NEXT STEP – work needed in the engine bay
Removing the scuttle panel.
Open the bonnet fully, and get a good look at the gear below the windscreen. The black plastic running the entire width of the car must be removed.
Not too tricky, but there’s a trick to every step!
With the wipers at natural rest position, use a small piece of electrical tape stuck to the screen each side to mark the position (beleive me, it’s invaluable).
Prize off the caps covering the wiper arm securing nuts. It’s a 13mm socket you’ll need to remove the nuts.
The arms are secured onto splined shafts, having a tapered shoulder, so they do ‘set’ very tight.
At this point, I closed the bonnet, lifted a wiper arm, and wiggled towards and away from the screen until it freed. Remove both arms and set aside, remembering which is which side.
Now remove the rubber seal at the junction of the bulkhead and the plastic scuttle.
The plastic scuttle is next. This is securely clipped into the lower edge trim of the windscreen.
To remove, first get your finger under the top edge, and work your way along, releasing it (in the direction perpendicular to the screen). Carefully ease it out of position, over the wiper arm shafts and set it aside.
Looking at the open space now, you can see the cabin air filter to the right side, the ECU in the centre, and wiper mechanism to the left.
Removing the wiper mechanism.
The wiper mechanism obstructs the cable socket box cover, so this has to be removed.
This is fixed in place with three bolts, 10mm size. Undo all these and remove, then unplug the wiper motor cable.
Carefully manouvre the wiper mechanism out of the space and set aside. This will give complete access to the cable socket box cover.
Accessing the cable socket box.
Now remove the two pressed nuts holding the cover of the cable socket box – these are 10mm.
Slide the cover to one side and unplug all the sockets. The only socket involved in this project is the black one.
If you can get to this from the inside as well, then unclip and drop the socket back in behind the dash, ready for the ‘inside’ work.
Otherwise, carefully lever the clips beside the black socket carrier and slide it along out of it’s retaining slots, so it can be lifted out and the black socket accessed from ‘outside’ (this is what I did).
You now need to carry out the operations ‘inside’ the car to go on further.
END OF STAGE.
Removing the dash plastics.
This is the bit which involved dis-assembling the lower part of the dashboard above the drivers footwell.
It’s not a big job, so get a soft pad to kneel on, and your torch handy.
The under-tray to the dash (above the pedals) is secured with seven T20 torx screws.
Carefully pull the panel out and set aside.
The fuse box is located to the right end of the dash – open the cover and carefully un-clip. The end surround, closing off the dash can also be un-clipped and all set aside.
The curved plastic panel below the steering column area can now be removed. Unclip and set aside.
The panel behind this can now be taken out by removing the T20 screws around the outer edges. Set aside once again.
You should now have clear access into the under-dash areas on the driver’s side.
Removing the fuse box.
The fuse box must be removed from it’s location by undoing two torx bolts.
Slide the fuse box down to gain good access to it, and un-clip the back cover. Careful! as there are some fuses powered-up when the ignition is off. Stray metal objects could short-out!
Looking at the back of the fuse box, you will see the purple (magenta) plastic grid, which securely keeps all the terminals in place.
Working on the fuse box
You will need to lever this into it’s ‘release’ position with a screwdriver – it should ‘click’ into position.
Locate fuse number 5. It is a mini-blade type, and should be 7.5A rated.
Now, you need to carefully un-hook the black/blue striped wired leading to the terminal on the ‘dead’ side of this fuse.
I used an un-wound paper clip of the large variety, and slid the end of the clip wire up beside the terminal, from the front.
The idea is to try and push the ‘barbed’ hooks (two) on both sides of the terminal, so you can pull it out.
With this terminal now removed, splay out the hooks if they were pushed back, and insert the terminal into the loose plastic clip that came with the Cruise Control wiring loom. (Part# 191972701).
Now click the plug on the end of the loom (Part# 191972711) into this plug behind the fuse box.
Insert the short black/blue cable of the new loom into the now spare fuse 5 chamber. Re-click the purple grid into it’s original position on the back of the fuse box.
Re-assemble the fuse box rear cover, ensuring the new CC wiring loom passes out along with the rest of the cables. Tie them together with a small wire tie.
Connecting the wiring loom
Now, thread the ‘loose’ end of the new CC wiring loom (with the bare terminals) in behind the dashboard, following the other wiring routes, and push them up to the location of the main cable socket box.
Working outside now, pull the terminals up through the aperture, and ensure the coloured tags are in place to identify the wires.
Now, taking the black socket, install all the new wiring loom terminals into their respecting numbered positions.
Again, there is a purple securing grid on the back of the socker that will need clicking into it’s alternative position whilst you insert the terminals.
Be careful here to ensure the terminals go into the correct positions on the socket, as the ID numbers are moulded into the socket and are quite small.
Once all the terminals are in place, click the purple grid back, and re-seat the socket in it’s holder.
Click all the plugs back into their respective coloured sockets, and re-seat the mounting grid.
Re-install all removed items in the reverse order of removal:
Cable socket box,
Bulkhead rubber seal,
Enabling the cruise control.
To carry out this final operation, you will need to access the control codes for the ECU.
This can be done in several ways.
1) Go to a dealer or specialist with a VW1551 or 1552 tool.
2) Use the emulation software by Ross-Tech (http://www.ross-tech.com/)
For the latter the following is the ‘generic’ procedure for carrying out this enabling work:
Select engine control module by pressing “01Q”.
Select read data function by pressing “08Q”.
Read group 06 by pressing “06Q” or “006Q” depending on which version of VAG 1551 tool that you have.
The 1551 will display a bunch of numbers. The fourth group of numbers, on the far right of the display will be either “0” or “255”. “0” means that cruise control is already enabled. If you see “255” then cruise control is locked, unlock it using the following steps.
Press the right arrow key.
For login procedure press “11Q”.
Enter the unlock code “11463Q”.
Now repeat the above steps and see if that “255” has changed to a “0”.
When you switch the cruise control ‘on’ with the new stalk switch, and the ignition is ‘on’, the symbol should alight in the speedo.
Turn the iginition ‘off’, remove the key, then proceed as normal to drive the car.
Ensuring you have a clear open stretch of road, test the controls.
You must have the stalk switch in the ‘on’ position for it to work.
CHECK THE CRUISE CONTROL DISENGAGES WHEN THE BRAKE OR CLUTCH IS PRESSED (be ready to knock it out of gear when testing the clutch switch!)
WELL DONE – IT WASN’T THAT DIFFICULT WAS IT?
ADDTIONAL USEFUL INFORMATION
Note that some OEM supplied looms do not include the additional connector housing and link wire to ‘tap in’ to the existing feed wire from fuse 5. In this case it will be necessary to use alternative means to connect the cruise control loom into the existing black/blue wire, as shown below
1.8T Engined Golf/Bora/TT/A3/S3/Octavia/Leon/Toledo.
These vehicles require additional cruise control wiring. I found some useful info on the following forum – audi-sport.net, so if you have this engine, please read more there as it includes useful part numbers etc.
OFFICIAL INSTALL PROCEDURE
A copy of the official VW TDI installation procedure instructions (retrofitting cruise control) can be found here.
SEAT/AUDI TRIM VARIATIONS
Steering Wheel Airbag
Audi A3/S3/TT models have steering wheel airbags retained by two medium caphead bolts behind the steering wheel and not the spring clips used on other VAG models.
Interior trim construction
Seat and Audi models all use a simpler lower dash construction than Golf/Bora models. This means that the complete lower dash panel under the steering column can be removed in one piece, thereby allowing easier access to the underside of the bulkhead mounted wiring connectors.
Scuttle Panel Construction
Seat and Audi Models have windscreen washer jets mounted on the plastic scuttle panel below the windscreen. It is therefore necessary to disconnect the push fit hose connections to the washer jets before the panel can be removed. If the washer jets are heated then there will also be wiring connectors to be removed. Once the washers have been disconnected, the panel is generally easier to remove than on Golf/Bora models as there is less interference around the bonnet hinges.
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