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Noise, Harshness, and Engine Vibration - engine mount

 

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vw golf mk1 engine mount

VW Golf mk1 articles

vw parts engine mount


Noise, Harshness, and Engine Vibration - engine mount.

Want to make your mk1 golf feel ten years younger?  
Tired of all the noise and vibration coming from your engine compartment?  
Your problem may be bad engine mounts!  The passenger side mount is usually
the culprit.  To check it out, get a floor jack and place it underneath the engine and raise it up about an inch or so. Start the car and note if the vibration
problem is lessened.  If so, you've got yourself a shot passenger side
engine mount.

Unfortunately, on the mk1 golf this engine mount is the one that is the most
difficult to change, and is also the one that fails the most since it carries the
majority of the engine's weight.  The best way to get at it is to remove all
the housings, pulleys, etc on the front of the engine.  
Take the opportunity to replace the camshaft drive belt while you're at it,
and check to see if your water pump  is about to give out,
since you can easily change it while all the other belts, etc.
are removed.  Before starting, support the front of the engine with a jack
or some other suitable material, and avoid getting under the engine while working.

The engine mount itself is attached with the three 6mm allen head bolts and
one hex bolt with a threaded cap.  The most difficult one to remove is the rear
top one, as the mount bracket interferes with getting an allen wrench on it.  
The easiest way to get at it is to take a 6mm allen wrench and cut off the
short end, leaving a little nub at the end that can then be placed on the bolt.  Sometimes this bolt will be loose enough where you can grab it with some
needle-nosed vice grips, but don't count on it.

To get the mount out of its bracket, you can use a press, or if one is not
available, take a hacksaw and saw the inner steel ring out of the mount in
a couple of places, this will relieve enough of the stress to where you can get
the mount out easily.  To do this, you'll have to take the blade off the saw, stick
it through the mount, then re-install it on the saw.  Make sure you don't saw
into the outer metal ring of the bracket.

Getting the new mount in isn't easy if you don't have a press.  
I would recommend taking it somewhere to get it pressed in, since you
can easily bang up the mount pretty good by trying to pound it in with a
hammer.   When installing the mount, be certain you have it oriented
properly, because once it's in there, it's REALLY in there.  If you don't have
access to a press, drop the new mount in some ice water, and heat up the
carrier by sticking it in the oven.  Generously lube up the new mount, grab
the carrier (it's hot now, remember), and as quick as you can start whacking
the mount into place.  Use a block of wood or something to shield the mount
from being hit directly by the hammer.    You're going to be out there for
quite a while hitting on the thing, but with a little persistence, you'll get it.  

 

Noise, Harshness, & Vibration Part II
Courtesy of Sean Greene President /founder Redlineccc

A simple and relatively cheap fix for all of those little buzzes and rattles is to
use a product called Dynamat. It is an asphalt based product that has a heat
activated adhesive on the one side.  This works by lowering the resonant
frequency of the offending panel by adding mass to it. I would advise using
Dynamat in the doors and especially on the roof as most noise is airborne.
This product is available at various Car audio shops and there are also
alternative products that will do the same thing.

http://members.tripod.com/redlineccc

 

 


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